English Version | Hall of Fame

As a subject of study for some of the most renowned philosophers throughout history, the concept of beauty remains one of the hardest to define. Beauty encompasses a social dimension, various conventions, and dialectics. Despite its complexity, there is a consensus that beauty is perceived through the senses, and in this respect, few things interact with us as intimately and simultaneously as cosmetics. For some, beauty is unquestionably personal; for others, it is subjectively universal. Ultimately, beauty results from what we accept as truth. Consequently, throughout the history of cosmetics, we can identify undeniable icons that have endured, crossed generations, and are wished a timeless life. Icons are not defined by a single moment; they are conceived to evolve and persist. Oscar Wilde wrote in The Picture of Dorian Gray: “Beauty is a form of genius.” Just like creative genius, beauty requires a certain understanding and appreciation of the world, capable of expressing emotions and ideas in ways words often cannot. Iconic cosmetics—whether as unique entities or aesthetic techniques—perfectly illustrate the intersection of beauty and creative genius.

Icons are plastic ideas, malleable over time and permeable to culture, yet retaining a persistent essence. An icon is constantly evolving while rooted in authenticity. This duality—the ability to transform without losing its essence—defines a product or beauty technique as truly iconic. Icons can be reformulated, repositioned, and reinterpreted but never lose their symbolic, cultural, and emotional significance. The philosophy behind the “iconic” can be viewed as a Platonic concept of beauty—something that approaches ideal perfection, linking the past to the present and future. Flexible enough to evolve, yet robust enough to retain an unchanging core of meaning… whether a lipstick, eyeliner, or perfume, the cosmetics that withstand time are those that can reflect, adapt, and influence culture across generations, preserving their transformative essence.

Erwin Panofsky, an influential theorist and art historian, significantly contributed to the study of iconography and iconology. Panofsky’s deeper analysis reveals that beauty icons do not merely dictate trends; they reflect social values, desires, and anxieties. Applying iconology to cosmetics offers valuable insights into how beauty is perceived, practiced, and consumed in society, allowing for critical reflection on the role cosmetics play in individual and collective identities and in defining power that each of us possesses.

In 1968, Robert Zajonc wrote one of psychology's most cited articles, “Attitudinal Effects of Mere Exposure.” In it, Zajonc reveals the paradigm associated with the mere exposure effect, suggesting that people develop a preference for things simply due to familiarity. Thus, we are more inclined to accept as iconic that which we already recognize as iconic, creating a kind of virtuous cycle. In this sense, the concept of an icon is also explored in the work of philosopher Roland Barthes, who examines how visual culture and consumer products become symbols of desire and status. Barthes argues that the icon’s image is intrinsically linked to narrative power, transforming objects into cultural and aspirational emblems. In the world of cosmetics, this means creating products that keep up with trends but set standards for the future and, at their core, remain deeply connected to identity. Cosmetic icons are tools for transformation—whether through physical transformation enabled by makeup or the cultural transformation an individual icon undergoes under public scrutiny. Contouring—the hallmark of Kim Kardashian—is more than a technique for sculpting the face; it is about shaping identity and asserting control over one’s image in a world that constantly scrutinizes physical appearance. Contouring has a long history in makeup, though it gained significant popularity only in recent years. Originally, this practice dates back to the Elizabethan theater in the 16th century, under the reign of Elizabeth I of England, when actors applied soot and chalk to their faces to define their features under strong candlelight, highlighting facial expressions dramatically for the audience. It was also used in early silent films to make emotions and facial shapes more visible on black-and-white screens. In the 1920s and 1930s, contouring became popular among Hollywood stars as part of the cinema's glamorous productions. Major names, like Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, used it to sculpt faces and emphasize cheekbones, defining the aesthetics of that era. However, it was in the 1980s and 1990s that contouring became part of conventional makeup, largely due to the work of professional makeup artists like Kevyn Aucoin—author of Making Faces and Face Forward—who used contouring to transform celebrities’ faces and create dramatic looks for fashion editorials. The modern contouring renaissance, as we know it, occurred with the rise of figures like Kim Kardashian in 2010, who brought the technique to the mainstream with the help of makeup artists like Mario Dedivanovic. Social media platforms like Instagram and YouTube were also instrumental in spreading tutorials that made this technique accessible to everyone, liberating it from the exclusivity of fashion backstage or Hollywood. Today, it has evolved into softer, more natural approaches, like soft contouring or even non-touring, reflecting a preference for makeup that enhances natural beauty. One cult product for this technique is the Face Trace Contour Stick by Westman Atelier.

Still around the angles of the face, we find another class of iconic cosmetics: blushes. With increasing consumption bolstered by contemporary literature and television phenomena, the use of blush peaked in the 1980s and seems to have come full circle today. This is explained by looking at the current context, the product's function, and history. The use of blush in makeup impacts our perception of health. Blush is typically used to give a “healthy” color to the cheeks, mimicking a natural flush that occurs when we are physically active or experiencing strong emotions. There appears to be an evolutionary advantage to blushing; humans are the only animals that blush, and it is impossible to consciously control when one blushes, from its onset to its conclusion; blushing is spontaneous and is thought to be perceived as a sign of transparency, honesty, and a desire to please others, fulfilling a strong need for social acceptance. The history of blush in cosmetics is almost transversal and dates back thousands of years, but there have been periods when blush was truly “king,” such as now, during the Regencycore trend, based on looks from the Regency era in the UK, a sub-period of the Georgian Era that preceded the Victorian Era. The term derives from the then Prince Regent—later King George IV—who ruled after his father was deemed too ill to lead. This theme is explored in Netflix’s series Queen Charlotte and Bridgerton. Characterized by years of elegance and artistic progress, the Regency era is defined by glamour, gossip, cultural emphasis, and relative sexual liberation. This trend—popularized by flushed cheeks and the makeup look known as “no-makeup makeup”—has made British actress Phoebe Dynevor (known for her role as Daphne Bridgerton) the face of the famous makeup brand Charlotte Tilbury. Makeup artist Pat McGrath also seized the moment and dedicated a collection to the same series, featuring actress Nicola Coughlan in her role as Penelope Whistledown, a.k.a. Lady Whistledown. In a more realistic approach, in HBO Max's series Normal People, makeup artist Niamh O'Connor skillfully used blush placement on actress Daisy Edgar-Jones' face to create a sense of character growth throughout the narrative. One of the most iconic blushes of all time is Orgasm by Nars. Created in 1999 by François Nars, the founder of the brand, Orgasm quickly gained fame for its universal shade: a mix of peachy pink with natural golden radiance. The provocative name also contributed to its cult status, striking a balance between sensuality and sophistication, and it has been a favorite of Gisele Bündchen, Emma Stone, and Jessica Alba, solidifying its place as a modern classic in cosmetics.

Another perfect example of plasticity in cosmetics is red lipstick. Although it has been reinterpreted by countless brands and makeup artists, its essence as a symbol of power, sensuality, and femininity—along with its emotional base—the ability to transform the wearer—remains intact. Whether in ancient Egypt with Cleopatra, the cinematic glamour of the 1950s, or on the haute couture runways today, red lipstick remains a hallmark of beauty. In 1910, Elizabeth Arden elevated red lipstick to a feminist symbol by distributing it to suffragists during women's rights marches in New York City. The slogan “Beauty is your duty”—declared by the British edition of Vogue in 1941, during World War II—became a patriotic commitment, supported and reinforced by Winston Churchill himself. Despite the production of cosmetics being interrupted in the UK due to more urgent tasks, the Prime Minister decided to make an exception for lipstick, stating that its use “boosted the morale of the population” and symbolized the strength and resilience of women who played essential roles in society during the conflict. Red lipstick was thus considered an essential item, and while gasoline, sugar, and eggs were rationed, lipsticks were distributed as frequently as flour. A definitive testament to the relevance of lipstick in times of crisis is the distribution of a large quantity of lipsticks to women prisoners upon the liberation of the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp, confirming that a simple cosmetic restored a sense of humanity. This episode was recounted by British artist Banksy in his work Holocaust Lipstick. Man Ray, too, explored the relationship between the body and objects in his photographs and surrealist works, highlighting red lips as an icon of desire and self-affirmation. Artistic movements such as Pop Art and Expressionism—through the works of artists like Andy Warhol—celebrated this cosmetic icon, making it a symbol of consumer culture and sexuality, often representing the duality between the glamour of fame and the superficiality of materialism. Lipstick became an object of desire, just like those who wore it. In literature, examples such as Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov, The Color Purple by Alice Walker, and Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie depict red lipstick as a symbol of seduction, power, and transformation. Within this category, there are two undeniable examples: MAC Ruby Woo—with intense pigmentation and a matte finish—favored by the iconic Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, Adele, and Priyanka Chopra; and Rouge Dior 999, Dior’s most iconic shade, created by Christian Dior, who claimed that “a woman can conquer the world with the right lipstick.” This is an absolute classic, worn by Natalie Portman, the brand ambassador, and by Bella Hadid and Charlize Theron.

Differentiation, storytelling, performance, and relevance are the necessary ingredients for creating an iconic cosmetic, and if in a room full of people one were to shout out the superlative name in perfumery, we would hear in unison: Chanel Nº5—a perfume among the most iconic of all time, mythical and timeless, the essence of femininity. Launched in 1921 by Gabrielle Chanel, it innovated by breaking with the traditional floral fragrances of the time, which were primarily composed of notes from a single flower. This fact, seemingly simple, is imbued with political and feminine social affirmation, revolutionizing a society where mono-floral scents were associated with respectable women, still following the Victorian style. Chanel Nº5 presented a complex mixture of synthetic aldehydes, with natural essences of jasmine, rose, and sandalwood, creating an abstract and modern olfactory experience in a completely transparent bottle with a design that would serve as an antidote to the excessive elaboration and pretentiousness of the crystal fragrance bottles popularized by Lalique and Baccarat. It quickly became a symbol of luxury and elegance, but what catapulted it into eternity was Marilyn Monroe's mention of it in an April 1952 interview with Life magazine, when she made her famous statement in response to the question, “What do you wear to bed?” replying, “I only wear Chanel Nº5.” Following Monroe’s lead were Catherine Deneuve, Carole Bouquet, Nicole Kidman, and currently, Margot Robbie—brand ambassador since 2018, but only recently presented as the “face” of the perfume in a disruptive video titled “See You at 5,” which portrays a date with actor Jacob Elordi. It is estimated that two bottles are sold worldwide every minute, and the number 5 will forever be synonymous with one brand: Chanel.

Another diva whose story intertwines with that of Coco Chanel is Josephine Baker. Parisians fell in love with the African American actress and singer, and adored her skin tone. Both were pivotal figures in transforming the perception of suntans as elegant, healthy, and even luxurious. Josephine Baker’s role in cosmetics extended further, and in the West, the history of the “cat eye”, as we know it, began with her in the 1920s, as she used it during her intoxicating performances. The 1950s witnessed mass production and commercialization of makeup, as well as the invention of liquid eyeliner. This innovation, along with makeup artists Max Factor, Ben Nye, and the Westmores—who applied the style on Marilyn Monroe, Ava Gardner, and Audrey Hepburn—helped define an entirely new era in beauty. Some of the biggest Italian film stars of the 1960s, such as Sophia Loren, captivated audiences with their own versions, and British model Twiggy gave the look a space-age twist with her graphic lines and flared lower lashes. Elizabeth Taylor, in her role as Cleopatra in the 1963 Hollywood epic, also reinforced its immense popularity, alongside model Pattie Boyd, who in 1965 wrote an article in the American magazine 16 on how to perfect the subtle “cat eye” effect. Between 1970 and 1980—amid the youth culture explosion featuring punks, goths, grunge lovers, and metal fans—its history slightly shifted: Debbie Harry, the lead singer of Blondie, wore it more boldly, and her fans followed suit. Style pioneers like Grace Jones and David Bowie played with feline shapes and mixed new colors with even bolder lashes. Bowie told Rolling Stone magazine about his makeup: “I’ve always had a kind of repulsive need to be something more than human.” In the 2000s, Amy Winehouse took the classic look and amplified its proportions with a “heavy wing” that extended beyond her eyebrow. Today, we see the classic shape reinterpreted and evolved beyond social status or conformity; it is much more versatile and easily shifts between classic beauty and subculture. A modern icon in the art of the cat eye is the Perfect Strokes Matte Liquid Liner, Rare Beauty by Selena Gomez—one of the few celebrity brands with solid growth.

In the era of social media, what makes a cosmetic iconic has changed significantly. Products like the Fenty Beauty Pro Filt'r Foundation by Rihanna introduced inclusion and diversity into the mission of beauty. With 50 shades, this product challenged the industry to reconsider what true inclusivity means, making the foundation an instant icon due to its revolutionary approach to diversity. In Abloh-isms, a collection of quotes by the late designer Virgil Abloh—creative director of Off-White and Louis Vuitton—he reflected and stated, “Black influence created a new ecosystem, which can grow and support different types of life that previously couldn’t.” This sentiment is reflected in how global beauty standards have shifted, embracing more diverse representations and redefining what it means to be an icon in the beauty industry. The digital age has also brought a new way of creating icons: virality. Products like Charlotte Tilbury’s Pillow Talk lipstick became iconic thanks to their digital popularity.

Androgyny and the transformation of beauty are also crucial. Actress Tilda Swinton has been a prominent example of this. With an androgynous appearance, Tilda collaborates with cosmetic brands that celebrate experimentation and fluidity, such as NARS and, more recently, Chanel, whose flawlessly crafted looks are shared through her makeup artist Morag Ross, reflecting a contemporary vision of beauty that challenges traditional gender binaries. By using cosmetics that subvert gender expectations—like bold lipsticks in masculine tones or foundations that highlight the skin’s natural texture—Tilda demonstrates that iconic beauty is in constant reinvention. Cosmetics serve her as a tangible expression of the universal subjectivity of beauty.

The rise of brands like Glossier, which promotes the glowing skin aesthetic, reflects the collective desire for radiant skin, reminiscent of Renaissance art that used glowing halos to symbolize divinity and purity. In this path of light, Yves Saint Laurent’s Touche Éclat is perhaps the ultimate example. In skincare, anti-aging cosmetics that enhance luminosity symbolize society’s fear of aging and the quest for eternal youth. Just as certain symbols in art represent deeper existential themes—for instance, the memento mori motif—beauty products often reflect deeper cultural anxieties about the human condition and perfection. Among serums with this positioning, Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair has stood out as a universal reference since 1982.

The relationship between beauty, creativity, and cosmetics is a rich narrative that evolves over time. In the future, what will be the icons of beauty? Which of today’s icons will endure? To date, the products that have become iconic are, in fact, manifestations of human genius, reflecting the complexity of emotions, cultures, and identities that define us. And in these iconic products—keepers of memory and symbols of transformation—there is a kind of “emotional DNA” that connects them to the experiences and identities of those who use them, today or tomorrow. Icons teach us that beauty does not lie solely in conforming to external ideals but in the courage to forge an authentic self in a world eager to dictate who we should be. Through their longevity, we are reminded that beauty, in its highest form, is an act of rebellion; a declaration of individuality and an uncompromising claim to our own identity, embodying both the aspirational and the attainable. Andy Warhol predicted: “In the future, everyone will be famous for 15 minutes.” However, to be truly iconic requires transcending that time multiple times over.

Translated from the original in Vogue Portugal's The Icons Issue, published November 2024. Full story and credits in the print issue.