English Version | Tales of brows and divine architecture

Our faces are a mosaic of unique features—fuller lips, almond eyes, a Greco-Roman nose, and, naturally, distinctive brows. These elements not only define us but also set the stage for our personal and cultural narratives. While makeup and hair have long been in the spotlight, receiving the most media coverage and trend-driven attention, brows have subtly yet powerfully framed our expressions. They add character, drama, and nuanced messages that speak to those fluent in the unspoken language of facial expression.

Blind to some and all too obvious to others, brows have followed their own unique trajectory, charting a course through time and space that’s both independent and intertwined with the other features of our face. They’ve ventured through the realms of beauty — sometimes boldly distant, sometimes harmoniously close to their facial cousins. From plucking to shaving, tattooing to nourishing, bleaching to styling, and painting to perfecting, brows have undergone every imaginable transformation.

But what lessons can be learned from the history of such a vital structure, one that plays a crucial role in the architecture of our most visible identity — our face? And why is it that so many overlook their significance until it’s too late to reverse a change that’s been made?

Historically, experts believe that, like many things in beauty, brows have always been aspirational—a goal anyone could achieve, regardless of financial bracket, societal caste, or corner of the world. Unlike clothes, makeup, or certain hairstyles, brows were something you could have. When it comes to the evolution of brows, Thomas McEntee, Celebrity Brow Artist, believes the 1930s was the first time brows truly played a role in beauty ideals. In the 1920s, brows were more about showing emotion on the silver screen, but in the 1930s, we saw the first wave of glamor directed at the masses—a departure from the turned-down, melancholy brows of the previous decade. These brows were higher, more defined, with strong arches.

For artists like McEntee, brows are the most important part of the face. While some may argue that the eye is the true giver of emotion, McEntee suggests that, beyond the glistening cornea and flirty lashes, it’s the frame around the eye—the brow—that grants it the power to showcase emotion, depth, and feeling. These bespoke, couture-crafted frames not only encompass but also highlight the artwork that is the face. When it comes to beauty, as McEntee says, symmetry is a myth. Neither our bodies nor our faces will ever achieve perfection—and brows won’t either. Instead, they strive for balance and harmony. Think of them as siblings, not twins, or however the popular saying goes.

Now, when it comes to history, brows—like most things in beauty—have changed drastically from decade to decade. We’ve seen them bleached, buzzed, thinned to barely-there lines, and permanently tattooed to the face. When it comes to their influence and metamorphosis, experts agree that, like trends in beauty, fashion, architecture, and design, brows are influenced by the times. They’re a mirror, reflecting the world we’re living in. From the exaggerated glamor of the 1930s to the peaceful return to natural beauty after the war in the 1970s, to the exaggerated opulence of the 1980s, fueled by globalization, all the way to the media frenzy of today—brows have mirrored our world, constantly reflecting our desire to belong.

That being said, as the popular phrase goes, memories are invisible to the eyes but can be felt with the heart—and in this case, seen in the vestiges of brows that once were. In beauty, most trends are fairly harmless. Makeup washes off, and hair can be restyled, cut, or extended. But that’s not the case for the two little arches above our eyes. As McEntee points out, brows are composed of a limited number of hairs, and following trends in shape and size often means removing them from the root. This can cause damage, and in many cases, lead to brows that never return to their original form. The victims of the skinny brow trend of the 1990s and 2000s are living proof—many still dealing with the consequences of a socially driven body modification.

In discussing the history of these ever-expressive frames, one must also consider the cultural impact of different nations, societies, and traditions. Experts agree that, globally, brows have co-influenced one another, often unconsciously, as elements of tradition were adapted into new world trends. Take, for example, the theatricality of the Geisha’s painted brows, which found its way into Western trends. Or the Spanish influence on fuller, more natural brows. Only recently have we begun to truly acknowledge the diverse ways brows grow for different people. Respecting and understanding that diversity helps us create the perfect brow for each individual face, McEntee explains. Different people, different brows.

Bringing it to modern-day society, we see how the rise of media, celebrities, and influencers has profoundly shaped the arches that define our faces. Media and celebrities have influenced every trend over the years, and brows are no exception, notes McEntee. From Marlena Dietrich's iconic face to Frida Kahlo's bold brows, from Joan Crawford and Cindy Crawford's piercing arches to Madonna, Selena, and today’s icons like Zendaya—these women have all impacted the beauty standard of what brows should, could, and what many aspire for them to look like.

However, experts worldwide unite with one clear message: just because a celebrity shaves off or bleaches out their brows, it doesn’t mean this is the new standard for brow beauty. McEntee cautions to be careful which brow trends you follow, as you may miss your brows when they’re gone.

From there, it’s impossible to discuss modernity without delving into social media and how this chronically-online lifestyle has reshaped our approach to brow grooming and shaping. Is it bratty? Is it demure? What role are the streaming giants playing in this beauty game? For McEntee, it all comes down to access to information. The speed at which trends emerge—and just as quickly fade—and the unprecedented accessibility given to consumers have drastically altered perceptions of what’s truly "in" and what’s not. Gone are the days when a single trend dominated; now, we witness an array of niche trends thriving across social media platforms.

That being said, the decentralization of trends is paving the way for a more curated, personalized approach to brows and beauty, which aligns with the dreams of experts like McEntee worldwide—the death of trends. It’s all about focusing on what works best for you, and as McEntee would say, trends be damned.

To start closing up shop, we must look at brows as the powerful self-expression tool they are. Brows have always been the ultimate tale of self expression because of the ease in which they can be altered to express said individuality. For McEntee, he sees it in the form of the rebellious removal of brows, to the bleached deletion, even a completely untouched natural brow is an act of rebellion against beauty standards as a whole. The question then is, is anything these days individualistic? Yes, for McEntee, and brow experts worldwide, it’s the two little strands of hair that sit atop your eyes.

From now, onto the future, we fall into the eternal cycle of trends, where everything has already been invented, is being recycled, and not that much new is created that one hasn't seen before. Trend cyclers, and experts like McEntee, ominously keep track of the trends that inevitably are bringing back the Tiphon to all brow artists across the world — the skinny brow. And while these experts plead to the heavens wondering why the world didn’t learn it’s lesson, they continue to work vigorously on their long term mission across beauty and space, the removal of all brow trends and the perfect, idyllic, personalized focus on what is best for each face, for each person, for each architecture. This is the real rebellion.

Translated from the original in Vogue Portugal's The Big Book of Trends, published September 2024. Full stories and credits in the print issue.